Borscht, Reconsidered

A mellow mix of veggies cozy up for a bone-healthy meal              

Childhood flashback: My mother stands in front of an open refrigerator, gulping down ice-cold borscht straight from its jar. It refreshed her as much as a glass of water or ice tea might refresh others, but I thought it was gross! Yes, we had been cleaning the house all day and yes, it was a sweltering summer day, but even so. Indeed, she was embarrassed when she realized she had been caught in the act—you might even say I caught her red-handed! Fast-forward to adulthood and I can fully appreciate the temptation to chug a glass of borscht in front of an open fridge. But sipping from a spoon that’s been dragged across a bowl of garnet goodness at the dinner table is my preferred method.

Borscht, Reconsidered

Serves 4

This may look like a humble borscht but it is remarkably luscious and satisfying. The key is a collagen-rich bone broth, which can be store-bought but is even better when kept simmering on the stove over the course of a lazy Sunday. (Stay tuned for a future post all about bone broth!) If store bought is your go-to, do invest time in reading nutrition labels. Salt is known to leach calcium from our bones, so choose low sodium brands without added sugar (they do exist). You’ll be astounded by the amount of sodium contained in well-known brands that have made their way into grocery carts through the ages. If your pocketbook allows, or if you’re in the mood for a nutritional splurge, look for ready-made stocks/bone broths made from grass-fed beef, pasture-raised chicken and wild-caught fish. It will be money well spent. 

Beets and cabbage are among the vegetables richest in Vitamin K. Higher levels of vitamin K in the blood are associated with higher levels of osteocalcin, a protein that helps improve bone density and reduce fracture risk, whereas low levels have been linked to low bone mineral density at the hip in men and at the spine in women. Beets also contain magnesium for proper calcium absorption, and potassium, linked with a decreased risk of osteoporosis in the lumbar spine of older women. It also neutralizes calcium depleting acids. Some research has shown that beta-carotene, the orange pigment in carrots, makes bones more resistant to fractures,. It is also linked with a decreased risk of osteopenia in post menopausal women. Carrots also contain vitamin K, potassium, and vitamin C, known to stimulate osteoblast growth and suppress osteoclast activity. Fennel plays an important supporting role both in flavor and with its supplemental magnesium, potassium, vitamin K (and a little bit of calcium too). Whether you sip, gulp, or slurp, the great thing about beet soup is that the ingredients responsible for its refreshing flavors are also the hallmarks of great bone nutrition. 

2 large beets, washed and greens removed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 cup scrubbed and diced carrot

1 cup diced fennel bulb (or celery)

3/4 cup diced red cabbage

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

4 cups beef bone broth, preferably homemade or best quality store bought

Black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons snipped fresh dill fronds

Juice of 1 lemon

For garnish:

Full-fat Greek yogurt 

Dill sprigs or baby beet greens

 Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Peel the beets, and dice into 1/2-inch cubes. Place on a sheet of foil, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and wrap into a not-too-tightly-sealed package. Place on a baking sheet and put in the oven for 30 minutes or until tender. Leave to cool in the foil. Heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a medium-sized pot. Add carrot, fennel, cabbage and garlic and saute 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add beets with their juices and the broth. Bring to a simmer, then season with black pepper and cook for another 10-15 minutes, till vegetables are soft and flavors have blended. Stir in lemon juice and dill fronds. 

Ladle soup into bowls and top with a dollop of  yogurt and baby beet greens or microgreens.

Credits: Voice/Prop Styling, Francine Matalon-Degni; Photographer, Julie Benedetto; Food Stylist/Recipe Developer, Leslie Orlandini; Editor, Sarah Marie Degni; Logo Designer, Zoe Miolla