Collagen and the Secret to Rich and Silky Soups
A great soup can be made with store-bought stock or broth, but if you go the extra mile and make your own, you’ll create the foundation for a tastier soup filled with all that collagen has to give!
Collagen is the most abundant protein found in our bodies, known for adding strength and flexibility to the way we step out and move. But in the kitchen, it’s the end result of a slow simmer of stock filled with bones and cartilage, making it rich in flavor and nutrients. Many take hydrolyzed collagen as a supplement for its cosmetic benefits for skin and hair and its soothing effects on joint pain, but there’s so much more to collagen’s profile.
Collagen is found in our bones, connective tissue (aka cartilage -- think tendons and ligaments), ears (inner and outer), nose, bronchial tubes, organs, vertebral disks and muscles. Strong muscles bolster healthy bones, and because of the amount of protein found in collagen, it promotes healthy muscles and adds strength and resilience to our bone matrix. Everyone slowly loses collagen beginning in their 20s, and for women, there’s an even more dramatic loss during the first five years of menopause. If we want healthy, flexible bones, we need to maintain a healthy collagen level. Many people take it in store-bought supplement form, but incorporating it into your diet with a rich stock -- even sipping it in place of afternoon tea -- is a particularly tasty way to get more bone support. How do we do it? Keep reading to learn about the difference between stocks and broths, what “bone broth” means, and how to save that $9 per quart by making it at home.
Stock vs. Broth: What’s the Difference?
Traditionally speaking, stock refers to the collagen-rich, dense liquid made by slowly simmering bones in water; broth, by simmering meaty bones (or meat without bones), vegetables and aromatics in water. But once paleo-minded makers and purveyors coined the phrase “bone broth” for their long-simmering bone soups, there’s been quite the mix-up in nomenclature. Whether you call it stock or broth, here’s what you need to know to create the perfect foundation for your next all-seasons soup...or stew... or to deglaze your pan for a great gravy...or to serve as an alternative to your afternoon cup of tea. So, get cooking, and rely on your own intrepid skills to lead the way!
Where To Start
Most recipes start off with roasted bones for the best flavor results, so next time you serve roasted chicken, hold on to that carcass! (You can freeze it.) Ask your butcher for some chicken feet to throw in with the bones for added cartilage. Beef stocks are made from a variety of bones with bits of meat and connective tissue clinging to them. Ask your butcher to include cartilage-rich knuckle, knee and femur bones to your mix in order to render more collagen.
The editors at Bon Appetit take the next steps very seriously when using uncooked bones, and so should you if you want your stock to taste better than you could have ever imagined. Start by cleaning them: Cover in cold water, bring to a boil then turn down the heat to a mighty simmer. Continue to simmer for 20 minutes, then drain. Next, roast the heck out of them at 425 degrees F. for 30 to 45 minutes. Stir a couple of times to keep them from sticking to the roasting pan.
Maximize Flavor
According to “Joy of Cooking,” a most flavorful stock is achieved by using a high proportion of bones to liquid. It also ensures a thicker collagen gel. Add only enough water to just cover your bones. Add 2 tablespoons of vinegar (organic apple cider vinegar seems to be the vinegar of choice but any vinegar will do) or wine to extrude even more cartilage from the bones.That translates to more collagen for you!
Bring to a boil, then immediately turn down to a simmer. Skim the foam that forms at the top every now and then for a clearer stock with better flavor. Add more water only as it evaporates under the level of the solids until the stock is fully cooked. (I like to keep a full tea kettle of boiled water on my stovetop to add to my simmering stock to keep the simmer from breaking.)
Because you want to extract as much collagen protein as you can, you’ll be simmering your stock for a long while. Some recommend 12 hours, some 18. Stock made from fish bones, more bioavailable than stock made from beef and chicken bones, will take only 8-9 hours to reach its peak before turning bitter. (No need to roast, fish bones but do rinse them before using.) If you’d like to go to bed at some point during this process, you can keep the stock on the stove, covered, with the heat turned off. In the morning, bring to a boil for 10 minutes, then turn it down to simmer until you’ve reached your goal. If you happen to have one, now’s the perfect time to liberate your slow cooker from deep storage. Twelve hours ought to do it, although I’ve seen some recipes that keep the slow cooker going for an entire 24 hours!
When You’ve Reached the Finish Line
You’ll notice a jiggle when the stock cools -- that’s just what you want! There’s no need to add flavorings to the stock because you’ll be using it as a base for other recipes, but if you’d like to use your stock as a sipping beverage for a refreshing pick-me-up, wait until the last half-hour of simmering before adding vegetables and other aromatics to prevent the stock from turning bitter. Strain into containers after completely cooled.
Shortcuts
If you truly can’t find the time to make a traditional stock, turn to your instant pot to speed up the process. (Some swear that flavor is compromised when you speed up the cooking process. You make the call.) Omit the vinegar, as the pressure from the instant pot will do what’s needed for an optimum collagen pull.
In A Pinch
Of course, there are many cans and boxes of broths and stocks to choose from at the grocer’s. No need to feel guilty if that’s where you’re headed, but do invest time in reading nutrition labels. Salt is known to leach calcium from our bones, so choose low-sodium brands without added sugar (they do exist!). You’ll be astounded by the amount of sodium contained in well-known brands that have made their way into grocery carts through the ages. If your pocketbook allows and if you’re in the mood for a nutritional splurge, look for products made from grass-fed beef, pasture-raised chicken and wild-caught fish. They can be found in the soup aisle and refrigerated sections. It will be money well spent.
Credits: Voice/ Styling, Fran Matalon-Degni; Photographer, Julie Benedetto; Food Stylist/Recipe Developer, Leslie Orlandini; Editor, Sarah Marie Degni; Logo Designer, Zoe Miolla